The Period and Possibly Period Dyes
These dyes are the ones I have research to show they were used in period, their direct European analogue was used in period, or that they exist in Europe and could potentially have been used, though I have no evidence of their direct usage.
Period (as of 10/26)
- Nightshade Berries
- Alder Tree
- Oak Moss (Lichen)* This one makes the house smell AMAZING with the boiling water method, no wonder Oak Moss was used for perfumes!!!
- Shield Lichens (Flavoparmelia, Punctelia– Boiled Water Method)
- Goldenrod
- Sumac
- Wild Grapes
- Oak (tannins) + Iron
- Bedstraw (Galium sp., cf Aparine)** This one so far is both my favorite discovery and the hardest one to work with- I found this growing on the riverbank behind the arena where my kid plays hockey and was SO EXCITED!! So far I have discovered that it works best if dried first, ground, and then heated, heating first and then grinding down didn’t produce such good results.
- Berberis (Berberine) (This is a small shrub native to both North America and China.. see https://zenofjen.com/fausta/2021/11/03/natural-dyes-the-quest-for-berberine/ )
- ** Natural Mordant- Clubmoss (Still steeping)
- ** Natural Mordant- Tinder Conk
Mostly Period: Dye fails and oopses
Possibly Period
- Boletopsis Grisea (fungus- analogue found in Europe)
- Lily of the Valley (Native European plant)
- Oak Gall (Plum Gall native to New World)
- Mullein (Used medicinally)
- Chlorociboria (Green staining wood fungus; the wood is known to have been used in period, but not as a dye)
- Yarrow (flowers- used medicinally)
Not Period
- Pokeberry (New World)
- Most Fungi (Just not used like that in the record at all)
In Progress/Planned (P- Period, NP- Not Period)
- Iris Root -P
- Acorn -P
- Barks; Oak, Apple, Beech, Birch -P
- Galls -P
- Fermented Lichens (Currently 5 types fermenting- Parmelia, Evernia, Umbilicaria, Usnea, Xanthoria)-P
- Leaves; See Above
- Tinder Conk -P
- Several kinds of Knotweed -P/PP
Experimentals (Found in the record but not often used today):
Tinder Conk as mordant
Club Moss as mordant
Methods:
For each dyestuff, I started with 100% weight of dyestuff to wool. Wool was handspun from tops purchased from the Woolery on both drop-spindle and spinning wheel until my dyeing experiments outpaced my spinning speed, at which point I purchased undyed Merino wool skeins from Knit Picks. Wool was scoured gently with Soak brand soap. Most wool was pre-mordanted with alum and then clipped off the skein as needed for testing. Short-term dyes were performed with a stainless pot on the stove with temperature controls (many dyes react poorly to boiling, some however require it!). Long-term dyes (eg lichens) were left on the pellet stove to keep warm for however long needed. Post-dye mordants were applied in disposable plastic containers as iron, copper, and tin are all variably stinky/toxic.
Extra special thanks to Kristina Rudmann/Meave Douglass for unknowingly helping me with this project through files she shared with me years ago 🙂
Useful Resources/Informal Bibliography (I swear I will actually get my citations in and an APA format biblio.. eventually)
The Rainbow Beneath My Feet, Bessette A.R. and A.E, 2001, Syracuse University Press, pp 176
Casselman, K.D., 2001. Lichen Dyes, The New Source Book. Dover Publications, 82 pages.
The Colour Cauldron- The History and Use of Natural Dyes in Scotland, 1986, Mill Books, 230 pp
Berberine References
Cardon, D., 2007. Natural Dyes: Sources, Traditions, Technology and Science, Archetype Publications, 801 pages.
Haji, A., 2010. Functional Dyeing of Wool with Natural Dye Extracted from Berberis vulgaris Wood and Rumex Hymenosepolus Root as Biomordant. Iran Journal of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, V. 29 N. 3, pp 55-60.
Han, J., 2016. The Historical and Chemical Investigation of Dyes in High Status Chinese Costume and Textiles of the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1911). Master’s Thesis, available through University of Glasgow College of Arts. 374 pages.